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Tahitian Pearls

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Saltwater - Tahitian pearl jewelry

Buying guide

About Tahitian pearls

Tahitian pearls grow in the black-lip oyster, Pinctada margaritifera, in the lagoons of French Polynesia. They are the only naturally dark pearls cultured in quantity, in tones from silver and charcoal to peacock green and aubergine.

Oyster
Black-lip oyster (Pinctada margaritifera)
Grown in
French Polynesia
Size
8–15mm; most pieces are 8–11mm
Color
Gray, black, peacock, aubergine, pistachio
Shapes
Round, drop, button, circled and baroque
Best for
Statement pieces, modern dark tones and men’s jewelry

Where the color comes from

The dark color comes from the black lip of the oyster that grows the pearl. On top of the body color sits the overtone, the second color that moves across the pearl as it turns. Peacock, a mix of green, gold and rose over dark gray, is the most sought after, but the right color is the one that suits your skin.

How we judge a Tahitian

We look at luster and overtone first, then nacre and surface. French Polynesia required a minimum nacre thickness for export until 2017, and thinner pearls have been legal since, so the seller’s own selection is now the only check. We assess the nacre on every strand. Tahitian pearls are grown in far smaller numbers than Akoya, so for these we describe the surface instead of scoring it.

Round, drop or baroque

Perfectly round Tahitians are the rarest and cost the most. Drops make beautiful earrings and pendants, and circled and baroque pearls carry the same color at a gentler price, with more character. A graduated strand, larger at the front, is a classic Tahitian style.

Choosing a size

For studs and pendants, 9–10mm is the most worn. Strands usually run 8–11mm. Men often choose a single 10–12mm stud or a strand at the larger end.

Before you buy

Are Tahitian pearls dyed?

Genuine Tahitian pearls are naturally dark; their color comes from the black-lip oyster. Dyed freshwater and Akoya pearls are sometimes sold as black pearls. Ask us about any piece and we will tell you what the pearls are and whether they have been treated.

Are all Tahitian pearls black?

No. Few are truly black. Most are gray, charcoal or silver with green, blue, rose or aubergine overtones, and some are light pistachio. The mix of body color and overtone is what makes each one different.

Why are some Tahitian pearls much more expensive than others?

Size, roundness, luster and a clean surface all raise the price, and they compound: a large, round, high-luster pearl with a strong overtone is rare. Baroque and circled pearls offer the same color for less.

Are Tahitian pearls a good choice for men?

Yes. Their dark tones suit men’s jewelry well. A single stud, a pendant on a chain or a strand of 10mm and up are the pieces men choose most often.

How do I care for Tahitian pearls?

The same way as any pearl: put them on last and take them off first, wipe them with a soft cloth after wearing, store them flat away from other jewelry, and have strands restrung when the silk loosens.

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