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South Sea pearls

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White and golden South Sea pearls from the silver-lip and gold-lip Pinctada maxima oyster: the largest cultured pearls, 9–16mm and up, with thick nacre and a satin luster.

Buying guide

About South Sea pearls

South Sea pearls are the largest cultured pearls, grown by the Pinctada maxima oyster in the warm waters of Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. The silver-lip oyster grows white and silver pearls; the gold-lip oyster grows champagne to deep gold.

Oyster
Silver-lip and gold-lip oysters (Pinctada maxima)
Grown in
Australia, Indonesia, Philippines
Size
9–16mm and up
Color
White, silver and cream; champagne to deep gold
Luster
Soft, satin glow from thick nacre
Best for
Heirloom pieces, milestone gifts and statement earrings

Why they are so large

The Pinctada maxima is the largest pearl oyster, and it grows each pearl for longer than the Akoya oyster does. The result is a bigger pearl with very thick nacre, and a luster that is soft and satiny rather than mirror-sharp.

White or golden

White South Sea pearls, mostly from Australia and Indonesia, range from bright white to silver and cream. Golden South Sea pearls come mainly from the Philippines and Indonesia, from soft champagne to deep gold; the deeper and more even the gold, the more it is prized. Both suit warm and cool skin tones; golden reads especially well on warmer skin and with yellow gold.

How we judge a South Sea pearl

Size, luster and the evenness of color come first, then shape and surface. Because these pearls are grown in small numbers, we describe the surface of each pearl rather than score it, and tell you whether a mark sits on the face or the back. For pearl pieces you can add a certificate from an independent gemological laboratory, at an added cost.

Choosing a size

10–14mm is the classic range for a strand. For earrings and pendants, 11–13mm is striking without feeling heavy. Each extra millimetre is markedly rarer, so prices rise quickly with size.

Before you buy

Why are South Sea pearls so expensive?

They are the largest cultured pearls, each oyster grows few of them, and every pearl stays in the oyster for a long time. Large, round pearls with an even color and a clean surface are rare even within a harvest.

What is the difference between white and golden South Sea pearls?

Both grow in the Pinctada maxima oyster. White pearls come from the silver-lip variety and golden ones from the gold-lip variety. They share the same size and satin luster; the choice is mainly about color and which metal you wear.

Are golden South Sea pearls natural in color?

Deep gold occurs naturally in gold-lip oysters and is the most prized. Some golden pearls on the market are color-enhanced. Ask us about any piece and we will tell you what we know about its color.

What size South Sea pearls should I choose?

Most clients choose 10–12mm for a strand they will wear often and 12mm and up for a statement or heirloom piece. Try sizes on at the gallery; size reads very differently once worn.

Are South Sea pearls a good investment?

Fine South Sea pearls hold their appeal for generations and are often passed down. We suggest buying the piece you will wear and love rather than buying for resale value.

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